Buying SATA Hard Drives

February 1, 2011

I have a few recommendations on purchasing hard drives for desktop or laptop computers. I don’t have much recent experience with enterprise-class drives (SCSI, SAS, Fibre Channel, etc.), so I won’t speak to those.

It’s weird how things change. In the ATA/EIDE days, I swore by Seagate and Samsung hard drives. IBM/Hitachi made “Deathstars” (several models of Deskstar drives had very high failure rates; all four of mine died prematurely). WD (Western Digital) had firmware compatibility problems with a lot of chipsets (including G3 iMacs, which couldn’t go to sleep with a WD drive installed).

In the SATA era, it’s reversed. Hitachi and WD Black SATA drives have been reliable and widely compatible in my experience, while Seagate and Samsung have problems with both high hardware failure rates and firmware bugs. The reliability of Seagate hard drives plummeted when they switched to perpendicular recording with the Barracuda 7200.10 line, and it still hasn’t recovered. Most of the dozen or more Seagate desktop and laptop drives I’ve gotten since 2007 have failed. Samsungs from a couple of years ago (the F1 series) reportedly had a lot of problems, so I avoided them, but the F3 series seems to be better, based on searches of reviews (I don’t have any personally). I also avoid WD Green drives after having problems with them unmounting randomly.

I no longer buy hard drives from NewEgg or Amazon because of substandard packaging, leading to higher failure rates from shipping damage. PC Connection, B&H, and OWC all package hard drives better.

When buying external drives (USB/Firewire/eSATA), I prefer buying the enclosures and drives separately. There are several reasons:

  1. It gives me the flexibility to choose both the enclosures I want and the drive models I want.
  2. Warrantees on bare drives are generally three years, but warranties on drives in external enclosures are only one year, for some reason.
  3. I want to ensure I’m free to swap out a drive from an enclosure without having to break the enclosure or void a warranty. For example, to plug it directly into a motherboard to check the S.M.A.R.T. status. Although that’s unnecessary for drives and computers that have eSATA connectors, at least half of my drives and computers don’t.

My preferred external enclosures are the Mercury lines made by OWC. They have proven generally reliable and sturdy over the past eight years, keep drives cool enough without fans, and use high quality chipsets. There are a few other good manufacturers of external enclosures; I have seen recommendations for LaCie, NewerTech, Glyph, and Granite Digital. But after some experimenting, I have stuck mostly to one manufacturer to avoid having to deal with a proliferation of different power supply connectors. Recently I have started also getting G-Technology G-Drive external drives, which are made by a division of Hitachi. They use the same power supply connectors as my OWC drives and seem to be good quality.

I avoid having important data on only one hard drive. I normally buy hard drives in pairs made by different manufacturers, so if one model of hard drive should turn out to have a short lifetime, the other copy of that data will be on a different brand of drive and be unaffected. This approach has saved me from losing a lot of data over the years. I’ll describe in another post how I keep the pairs of drive synchronized.

Making DVD File Systems

December 30, 2010

If you have a VIDEO_TS folder, which is the files to make a video DVD, and you’re using a Mac, how can you create a playable DVD? There are a couple of free programs I like for this.

Both iDVD and DVD Studio Pro, among other programs, can create video DVD title set files (VIDEO_TS folders), but those need to be burned to DVD in a special format (called UDF 1.02). To make a playable video DVD, you can burn a VIDEO_TS folder to DVD using the program LiquidCD. Or you can create an ISO image file with the program AquaISO. Later you can burn the ISO file to a DVD using LiquidCD, Disk Utility, SimplyBurns, or other programs (including a bunch on Windows).

Why would you want to save a VIDEO_TS folder or ISO file on a hard drive instead of burning a DVD directly from iDVD or DVD Studio Pro? Several reasons. It’s a convenient way to burn multiple copies. It’s a way to keep an archive copy in a compact format. You might need to copy or send it to other people so they can burn it to DVD. You might need to make changes to the files before burning them to DVD, using a program such as MyDVDEdit (such as to work around iDVD bugs in handling 16:9 videos). You might have created the VIDEO_TS folder using some other software or gotten it from someone else. You might want more control over the burning process, such as burning at a lower speed for higher quality (DVD Studio Pro doesn’t let you control the burning speed).

From Flash to MP4

May 25, 2010

I’ve been thinking about saving some Flash videos from YouTube, Vimeo (videos without a download link), and other sites for playing on iPods and other platforms that don’t support Flash video. Since most Flash video these days uses the h.264 codec, it should be possible to de-multiplex the .flv file to extract the video and audio streams, then re-multiplex them into an MP4 container, with no re-encoding.

On a Mac with Perian and QuickTime Pro installed, just open the .flv file in QuickTime Player 7, do “Save As,” choose “self-contained movie,” and after a few seconds, you’ll get a copy of the video in a QuickTime .mov file.

There’s also a more roundabout way to do it on Windows, if you really want a .mp4 container file.

  1. Download the Flash video file (.flv extension). The Firefox add-on DownloadHelper is one way to do this. You should probably download the highest-resolution version available.
  2. Run FLV Extract and drop the .flv file onto it to create .264 and .aac files, which contain the video and audio respectively. If it produces files with different extensions, your Flash video file isn’t encoded in h.264 so the next step won’t work, sorry.
  3. Run YAMB and add the .264 and .aac files to re-multiplex them into a .mp4 file.
  4. Play the .mp4 file and check that audio and video stay in sync before you delete the .flv file.

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